Free chlorine is just that, free. Free to interact with other chemicals, algae, bacteria or the like. We like free chlorine because when it interacts with these potentially harmful things, it usually kills them and off-gasses them into the atmosphere. Combined chlorine , on the other hand, is chlorine that is stuck in an unhealthy relationship, often with ammonia or nitrogen. Because it is bound up in this combined state, it is no longer free to interact with other things in the water and is no longer an effective sanitizer.
The worst of it is our poor chlorine molecule is doomed to stay in this stinking dysfunctional relationship unless he gets some help from his buddies, free chlorine or some other oxidizer. I say stinking because usually if you encounter a pool with a strong chlorine smell, it is in fact combined chlorine you are smelling. Shocking then releases the combined chlorine and off-gasses the contaminants, increasing the amount of free chlorine in your pool or spa. The question of whether to use a chlorinated or non-chlorinated shock will depend on how much total chlorine you have in your pool or spa.
If your total chlorine level is high, you will use a non-chlorine shock; if it is low, you will use a chlorinated shock. The formula for hitting breakpoint can get a little complicated, so we suggest you talk to your pool professional. The second most common reason for shocking your pool or spa is to raise the sanitizer level quickly. Sometimes, after a party, for example, your chlorine level will just bottom out. When this happens, you want to quickly get your chlorine level back up to the recommended ppm parts per million before algae or bacteria can gain a foothold.
The bond renders the chlorine molecule useless and causes the pool water to smell strongly of chlorine and irritate swimmers eyes. DPD test kits can test for both Free and Total chlorine, with any difference in the test results being Combined chlorine. Shock the pool to remove chloramines when levels exceed 0. How often do you need to shock a pool?
You can test for chloramines and you can see algae, but bacteria and other pathogens are invisible, as are nitrates, phosphates and ammonia. For pools that have hosted a party for a dozen or more swimmers, or if a pool becomes contaminated with urine, feces or vomit, a strong shocking is in order.
In cases where chlorine levels have depleted, due to hot temperatures, faulty equipment, or operator error, pool shock can be used to quickly raise chlorine levels. Another use is when a pool cannot obtain a good chlorine reading.
If the water is balanced, algae-free, and does not have excessive levels of cyanuric acid, but still cannot get a good chlorine reading despite continuous additions of chlorine, there may be nitrate or ammonia levels consuming chlorine. In such cases, where you have tried everything else, try a 'triple-shock' of 3 lbs of shock, per 10, gallons of pool water, to destroy these invisible consumers of chlorine.
For a pool that uses chlorine or bromine for daily chlorination, there a variety of EPA approved chemicals that can be used for shocking the pool. The best one for your pool may depend on your pool type, or if you have issues with hard water or high cyanuric acid levels.
Calcium Hypochlorite: Cal Hypo for short, is the most economical pool shock you can buy. Sodium Dichlor: Dichlor for short, is stabilized pool shock, with cyanuric acid as protection from the sun. Adds no calcium to the pool. Potassium Monopersulfate: Non-Chlorine Shock for short, oxidizes pool water in a chlorine free formula that is not affected by sunlight, leaves no residue, and adds only oxygen. Which pool shock to use?
Most pools can use Cal Hypo, but for those in hard water areas, with concerns of growing calcium hardness levels, Sodium Dichlor or Non-Chlorine shock may be a better choice. Each pound of Cal Hypo will add ppm to calcium hardness levels. Pools with growing cyanuric acid levels may want to avoid Dichlor shock; each pound adds a small amount of cyanuric acid. In The Swim Cal Hypo pool shock is packaged in easy-opening 1 lb.
We also have Instant Pool Shock in 1 lb bottles , and Cal-Chlor, in 25 and 50 lb buckets ; easier to use when adding large amounts of pool shock at one time. Chlorine-Free, Cal Hypo and Dichlor pool shocks are all available in 1 lb. Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer is a non-chlorine oxygen based oxidizer that treats up to 30, gallons. Waiting to swim after shocking. Follow package instructions, which will guide you in how long to wait after shocking before swimming.
Heavy shocking with granular chlorine will generally require hours before the chlorine level has dropped to safe swimming levels below 5 ppm. Lithium and Non-Chlorine shock labels typically allow immediate swimming, but check the package label, to be sure. Chlorine-Free shock treatments contain oxygen, with salts of potassium, and it does have many advantages when compared to chlorine-based pool shock, and it costs the same.
Chlorine shock treatments come in two types - Cal Hypo and Dichlor. Calcium Hypochlorite is the most common, strongest and cheapest pool shock, available in two strengths, Shock and Super Shock. Dichlor is a stabilized granular pool shock, made with stabilizer to protect it from the sun and keep it active longer during the day.
How much pool shock to use? Generally speaking, the dosage amount of pool shock is 1 lb. Depending on the severity of the problem you are addressing, you may need a double or triple dose, to successfully fix the issue. For chloramine removal, shock the pool to reach a Free Chlorine level that is 10 to 20 times the amount of measured chloramines. For algae removal, 30 ppm is a generally accepted target, but you may use more or less, depending on the severity of the algae bloom. You can check poolcalculator for amounts of pool shock needed to reach a specific ppm level.
Another rule of thumb in algae removal is that if the water is still green, you need more. For boosting chlorine levels that have dropped to zero, 1 pound of pool shock will usually be sufficient.
How Much Shock should I Use? That depends on what problem you are trying to solve, and the current condition of the water. If the water is hazy or cloudy use a full bag per 10K gallons, and if there is algae use lbs per 10, gals, depending on the extent of the algae bloom.
A chlorine level of between 10 ppm and 30 ppm, sustained for several hours, is usually needed to remove algae, bacteria and chloramines. Using a patented and award-winning AOP technology , Clear Comfort uses powerful hydroxyl radicals that quickly destroy unwanted contaminants in pool and spa water, thus the reason for dramatically reducing chemical consumption, combined chlorine, and other DBPs.
The Clear Comfort Champ Award proudly recognizes an outstanding company in the pool and spa industry that. Get A Quote. Louie Warco. Share This Post. Share on facebook. Share on linkedin. Share on twitter. Share on email. You may want to shock your pool in certain situations, such as: After a new pool construction is completed and there is a fresh fill from any source of water. Opening your pool for the season after it has been closed for the winter.
After heavy bather loading from pool parties. When pool or spa water temperatures are consistently high from sun exposure or heating the water regularly. After heavy rainfalls that can add organic loading to the water.
What Is Pool Shocking? Make sure that the pool shock chemicals are stored in a cool and dry place. Always apply pool shock chemicals directly to pool or spa water. Here are four main types of pool shock: 1. Calcium Hypochlorite Calcium Hypochlorite, or cal-hypo, is the most powerful and fast-acting shock available.
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